Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Intrigue in the Mundane

Before living abroad, I never stopped to consider how we understand unspoken social rules. For example, when you meet someone head-on, walking on the sidewalk, which way do you dodge to pass? Or how much personal space is appropriate in public situations? Which side of the escalator do you pass on?

For all the things I love about Japan (helpful people, fresh salmon, an in-the-closet obsession with flowers and plants, and more types of ramen than letters in the alphabet) there is one thing that makes me increasingly jaded and maybe judgemental: right-side-of-the-escalator-STANDERS (or LEFT-side-standers for you Osakans!). The escalator (エスカレーター in katakana, pronounced esu-ka-re-ta) is a common sight here as most train stations, shopping malls, and restaurants are multi-story, but for some infuriating reason, there are some people who still go through life, failing to notice that lines on the left stand, and lines on the right climb. Everyone in front of you is walking up the escalator, and everyone beside you is standing!!!! Don't you SEE there is a functional and useful social construct at play here!?!?! Of all the orderliness of this country, how can you miss this?!?!

Over the span of weeks now, I have timed my morning commute that includes one long and steep escalator in particular, the one that also (coincidentally?) has the most offenders. Research says that if I take the stairs, I miss my connecting train. If people are STANDING on the right side (and therefore both sides) of the escalator, I miss my connecting train. But if everyone cooperates, I can reach my connection in perfect timing. Therefore, if you are one of these people, prepare to be given the eye and mentally marked as "one of THOSE people" in my mental cache of other useless things I'll never actually use.

The good news is, the rest of my morning commute is...well, as I mentioned, orderly. I've read about Japanese train systems before, and I was aware before coming to Japan that trains here are world-renowned for their puncuality and reliability. I also read that Japanese people are not at all pushy, even when it comes to transportation. While this is all true, I am still amazed. Trains are indeed on time, to the exact minute, and the conductors and platform attendants make sure no one gets slammed in doors or left behind. Yet they still run on time. Wow. On even the most crowded days, where people's faces are almost literally up against the glass of the doors, everyone manages to fit just one more person on the car. There are days when I've come running down the stairs to see toes hanging over the edge of the traincar. I've often thought to myself - there is no way I'll fit in there, especially before the door closes. But I'll tell you, I've NEVER been refused space on the train. People flow and squish and always make room. Yes, you may end up being the one with your face up against the glass of the door, but you made it.

Another mundane task I've taken on recently is going to the dentist. I admit I haven't been for a cleaning in a couple of years due to lack of healthcare that covered dental checkups, so when I found out it's covered under my Japanese health care, I decided to take advantage. While I was unpleasantly surprised to find out I had a couple small cavities (not a usual thing for me!), it was an easy and painless fix, without needles, and done in under 30 minutes. I went back a week later for the cleaning and my first ever gum massage! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, a gum massage is included to cap off your cleaning experience. Honestly, I'm having a hard time explaining the kind of weird and maybe invasive that it was, but I found it strangely relaxing and refreshing.

I was conversely pleasantly surprised at the checkout counter. For two visits that included two fillings and a cleaning (and the complimentary gum massage!) I paid around $45 USD. The cleaning itself was only $13! That might be worth it for just another gum massage!


Another bargain is my second-hand kimono! What beautiful stitching and only $50. I feel like a queen everytime I wear it (around the house only so far haha)! 


Another thing I've tried to take advantage of while I'm here is Japan's "throw away culture." There is actually somewhat of a taboo on second hand goods, maybe that they are dirty or that only lower class people need used things. Whatever the reason is, I really truly extra-specially hate the wastefulness of it all. It's almost as bad as oranges or limes individually wrapped in plastic at the grocery store or just-purchased reusable bags being put into a plastic carry bag at checkout. WHY is there so much environmental waste?!?!

So you're probably wondering why I say I am taking advantage then. Well, one man's trash is another (wo)man's treasure! I have had some amazing roadside (or bin-side) opportunities. I have found some delight in scavenging in the past, but last night was the luckiest yet.

First let's be clear of the nature of my collecting, as it is not traditional dumpster diving. In Japan, they don't really have dumpters. Apartment complexes have a sort of concrete gutter space with a net over it where people put color-coded trash bags out on collection days. I pass said collection site on my way to and from my apartment, so I am usually well aware of the day's inventory. This means that whenever good things are thrown away, I know about it.

On my walk home yesterday, an entire (clear) bag of kitchen appliances had been places at the curb, next to a perfectly good looking mini-apartment couch. Jackpot! We've needed a place to chill out besides our two metal chairs and loft bed, and kitchen appliances are among my favorite kind of finds. So, naturally, I drag it all into my apartment like a lioness bringing her neweset prize back to the den. The couch doesn't smell, and it still has the tag. Check, that's a keeper. Upon sorting the contents of the plastic bag, I come out with a (like-new and yes, functioning) rice cooker, electric kettle, iron (with steam function!), mini-ironing board, high powered ion hairdryer, and some batteries. But the greatest surprise lay at the bottom of the plastic bag treasure trove. In surprise, I pulled out not one, but two iPhones! Normally, I'd assume they didn't work, but my phone had just broken completely the week before, and I was desperate. This was Japan after all, and I HAD just pulled out several funtioning kitchen appliances....Yes, the iPhones, too, worked. The iPhone 6 barely had a scratch due to it's case, but I couldn't crack the passcode. The iPhone 5 had a cracked screen, but I was happy to see "Swipe to unlock" displayed (in Japanese of course) at the bottom of the home screen! WHAT LUCK.

The spoils! Yes, even the little couch thing and the plastic bins! 

Of course, it hasn't actually been that easy to USE the phones. Even after factory resetting the iPhone 6, it requires the Apple ID of the original user, as does the half-funtioning iPhone 5. I have contacted the owner (and maybe freaked him out a bit!) about the issue, and he seems to be willing to cooperate. Fingers crossed, these two iPhones will turn out to have a happy ending, saved from the landfill!

So, while my life may not be all the exotic endeavors you may think it is, adventures still find their way into the mundane when you are living abroad, trying to navigate a foreign country and culture.

(P.S. We will be taking an actual adventure soon as we travel to the northern island of Japan, Hokkaido, at the end of this semester. We are still in the planning process, but beware of foodie pics galore and nature nerd stories to come soon!)

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